"Salterton is a village situated on the coast, and deriving its welfare chiefly from individuals invited hither by the salubrity of the air, and the beauty of the scenery around." (Pigot, 1830).

Budleigh Salterton, as its hybrid name implies, was once port of the Manor of Budley Syon. The name comes from Saltern, or the Saxon Sealter-tun, town of the Salters, who worked the saltpans on the estuary from Roman times. The name "Salterne" can be found in old maps as late as Cary's in 1831. "Budley Salterton" first appeared on a map by the cartographer Benjamin Donn in 1765, perhaps to distinguish it from Woodbury Salterton.

The name Budleigh Salterton does not occur in Parish records before 1813, According to the historian Dr. Brushfield, writing in Wate's "Illustrated Guide to Budleigh Salterton" in 1903 - "The term cannot be traced further back than the mid 18th century ... It is customary to write 'Budleigh Salterton', and to call it 'Salterton'."

The parish of Budleigh Salterton only separated from the Mother parish of Budleigh in 1894. Its boundaries are formed in a line from the Otter to Kersbrook, and along the East Budleigh-Exmouth Road as for as the top of Knowle Hill. Here it joins the original parish boundary along the water-shed ridge between the valleys of the Exe and the Otter to West Down Beacon. On the south the bounds follow the coastline from the Beacon to Otterhead.

Saltern

During the Middle Ages, while Budley prospered, Saltern remained a collection of poor cottages on 'Landside', the part of Budley Syon Manor close to the sea.  Its sparse population was probably due to fear of pirates who raided the coastline during that period.  Most of the fishermen lived in 'Budley towne', and the salters in Budley and Woodbury, so the few inhabitants of Saltern could well have been smugglers. It is certain that smuggling was a traditional occupation in these parts until well into the 19th century.

From a parish rate list of 1600, it appears that there were 15 house-holders in Knowle, about 12 in Kersbrook, and around that number in Salterton. Quinney's Antique Shop (14, High Street) is a mediaeval cottage. It is typical of the houses of that time, with a cross passage from front to back, and originally would have had no upper storey. It is thought that the floor was once level with the street, but that the mud lane has gradually achieved the present height over the years.

The Lime Kilns

From the 7th century onwards, the use of lime in agriculture increased, and the import and burning of lime became an important local industry; the kilns were situated near the saltings, where the cliff drops down to the present car park.

Early in the 19th century Lord Rolle built another kiln on Tidwell Mount, above the Knowle-East Budleigh road. The kiln was brought to general notice only when the road was widened in 1982. Its position high on the hill seems odd, but the road was originally at that level until it was lowered in 1834.

The limestone was brought close to the shore in flat bottomed boats, where it was unloaded at high tide. When the tide went out it was shovelled into trucks which ran up the beach on rails to the kilns, winched up by a capstan. This was turned by a horse walking around a circular iron plate. After burning the lime was carted away by the farmers, who settled their accounts annually at a luncheon provided by the lime merchant. The kilns continued to be worked until around 1875.

This truckway was also used for the unloading of coal barges. In the 19th century a collier anchored in the bay at regular intervals until an improvement in the road system allowed the coal to be carted from Exmouth.

The 18th Century Growth of a Seaside Resort

In the latter part of the 18th century, "the Rolles, using labour available to them as heredity wardens of the County Gaol, entirely re-organised the local road system, free of cost to the public ... From about 1800 Budleigh Salterton benefited from the fashion whereby gentlefolk of means and leisure came to live by the sea" (from 'Salterton Past and Present').

The lengthy visit to Sidmouth paid by the Duke and Duchess of Kent with Princess Victoria in 1819, did much to increase the popularity of this part of the coast among fashionable society.  Gradually Salterton, once the Cinderella of 'Budley towne' developed into the charming village and select watering place that delighted late Georgian and Victorian society.

Until the end of the 18th century, the main approach to Salterton on horseback or by carrier cart, was along an ancient trackway from Budleigh. This led down what is now Fore Street Hill, where the traveller had to ford the stream at the bottom as it crossed the street to join the sea. There was no road along the sea front until many years later.

An item in Budleigh Parish Accounts of 1717-18 reads: "paid for ye bridge at Salterton, and putting it up -- £00-15s-6d".  

Dr. Brushfield suggests that this was "a kind of clapper or boarding bridge, with a handrail for foot passengers only, pack horses and vehicles passing through the stream".

At that time, the village street must have looked rather like East Budleigh High Street today, with cottages bordering the stream, interspersed with a few farms and dairies. At the Exeter Inn, a post-chay could be hired after the road had been made suitable. Several cottages from the late 17th and 18th centuries remain, but much altered in appearance, Sanders' Fish Shop and the 'Cob House' among them. The Cob House has the oldest shop window in the town, dated about 1820.

One of the earliest residents was Mr. James Lackington, who retired there from London after making his fortune in the second-hand book trade. He was so struck with the "spiritual Destitution of the place" that in 1812 he built the Methodist 'Temple'. (This was replaced in 1904-5 by the present church with accommodation for 450 persons, built at a cost of £5,500 raised by public subscription.)

Salterton was still part of the parish of All Saints', East Budleigh, and remained so until the end of that century; but for the benefit of the growing number of residents, an elegant Chapel-of-Ease was built by Lord Rolle in 1812. It stood at the end of East Terrace, near its corner with Chapel Street. It had to be enlarged in 1837, and remained in use as a Boys' Club and Gymnasium for some time after the consecration of St. Peter's Church in 1893, and as a church room where concerts were held. It was eventually demolished in the early 1900s.

It is said by some that the Palmers' Bell, which following tradition is still rung at 8 a.m. from their Builders' Yard, came from the Rolle Chapel when it was pulled down.

The oldest church still standing in Budleigh Salterton is the Baptist Church, Little Knowle, which was built in 1844 with money raised by public subscription.

On October 25th, 1809, Salterton celebrated the Jubilee of George III. The occasion was described in 1887 by Maria Gibbons, a Victorian lady writer resident at Salterton, after talking to the oldest inhabitant of her day:-

"Some few are still left among us, who can remember George III's , Jubilee, although it did take place nearly 78 years ago ... the whole village of Budleigh Salterton then consisted of about 25 houses all told."

Maria Gibbons' account continues:-

'We may suppose that some 200 people actually sat down to the dinner on the very spot where the Parade now stands. The tables were laid in a green field surrounded by a high hedge." (Water Ledge Field)

"The Water Ledge Field was not the last field towards the sea ... there were two fields in front of it, for not only was there no road in those days, but there was very little beach. The grass grew nearly down to the waters edge, and where our Salterton pebbles now lay so thickly, cattle were peacefully grazing on rich pasture ...

"There must have also been some difficulty in carrying the various provisions down to the Water Ledge Field; a bridge had been built it is true, in 1805, but the bridge was a poor one it seems, for in December 1810, the Surveyor was called upon 'to build a good strong bridge ... to fence the brook ... and fill up the road to the beach, fit for passengers to pass the repass with all horses and carriages'. "

"Some houses were now found on what we now call Surgery Hill. (Fore Street Hill) Perhaps Mr. George Reade of Elvestone was among those waiting upon the guests ... The Red Brick Terrace (East Terrace) also was built, as was the property of Mr. Lug Walters, and Mr. John Carter.  In Mr. Walter's house, the Jubilee Ball was held in the evening ... but beyond these red brick houses were nothing but green fields and common, stretching away, across even where West Terrace and the Lawn now are, but there was a little lane called Wise Lane, where Chapel Street now is.  Here the cattle were driven to the brake or Common, where Upper West Terrace now stands ... Where we now see the Rolle Arms were orchards . , . behind those orchards again was a field, and a large barn ... Cliff Terrace, Cliff Road and Queen Street were not in existence, here were either green fields, or waste land or common, but in front of this on the main street a few houses were to be found."

In November 1824, a terrible storm occurred, which completely altered the sea shore, and is said to have washed away some old cottages built down by the sea. The waves washed up the great mass of pebbles over the grass, and the stones remain to this day.

The only water supply for the inhabitants of Salterton until the end of the century remained the village brook, apart from those houses with wells. Dipping steps are still to be found by the little bridge leading to Ryll Lane. A piped water supply was not introduced until 1894, when the Kersbrook springs were utilised as well as the water from Sherbrook Chine.

Maria Gibbons describes the brook as being crossed by 15 little bridges, and having many little waterfalls to add to its charm. There must have been much more water in the stream than it has now, but the number of bridges over it varies in different accounts.

White's History, Gazetteer and Directory of Devonshire of 1850 reads: "Through the middle of the main street runs a small brook which is crossed by three wooden bridges, and gives a refreshing coolness to the air. There are hot and cold baths in the town, and Bathing Machines on the beach. There is a Coastguard, consisting of a lieutenant and eleven men, and mackerel and other fish are caught by the bar of the estuary. The town has two circulating libraries and Reading Rooms, and a neat National School."

An extract from a handbook for visitors in 1845 reads:- "We would, however, take leave to suggest that a removal of the Gentlemen's Bathing Machine to the west of the village would be more agreeable to visitors."

Records show that the Rolle Arms was well established by 1830, by which time the Exeter Inn had gone.  In 1838, the Rolle was described as "A respectable Inn and Posting House kept by Mr. Pratt". It was rebuilt and enlarged in 1842, offering saddle horses and carriages for hire. The mews was opposite Perriams and Butler's Pantry where the car park is now.

In 1857 the Rolle Arms and Posting House was advertised in Billing's Directory as kept by Samuel Chichester (Victualler). This Directory recommended Salterton as "a fashionable watering-place, which may now be said to vie with some other places of larger growth in extent of its accommodation for bathers. There are many respectable lodging-houses and hotels, where the robust and invalid will find comfort and recreation."

By 1870, Morris's Directory, describing the Rolle, tells us that "A large and commodious hotel has been built by the spirited proprietor, Mr. J. Harwood." This much loved hotel continued to prosper into the 1970s, but in 1973 it was sold to developers, demolished in 1976, and replaced by 'The Rolle' flats.

A Salterton Guide Book of 1845 advertised the St. David's packet, which sailed from Topsham to London, via Exmouth, every week in the summer, and once in 10 days during the winter. It also stated: "To and from Exeter there is a conveyance by coach or omnibus (horse drawn) to Sidmouth by the latter kind of vehicle twice a week"; while "Sedan chairs and other conveyances for transporting invalids could be hired from three persons there."

By 1856, not only Sedan chairs, but "Bath chairs, and other hand conveyances for invalids are kept at various establishments ... The usual description of vehicles as flys, phaetons, etc. with excellent saddle horses could be hired."

From Billing's Directory of 1857:- 'The Defiance' drives to Exeter over Woodbury Common, leaving at 8 a.m. Monday, Wednesday and Friday". By 1863, according to Murray's Handbook, the mail left the Rolle Arms for Exeter at 7 a.m. and returned by Exmouth at the same hour every evening.

"Fairs for pleasure and pedlery are held at Salterton on Whit Tuesday" (White's Directory, 1850). Salterton had become a haunt for botanists, and Murray's Handbook (1863) comments on "the number of myrtles to be found in this area."

Most of the charming 'period' houses that remain in the town today originate from the early years of the 19th century.

'Fairlynch', now an excellent museum, was built by Matthew Lee Yeates in 1811-12. He was a boatbuilder, and a real entrepreneur who, in partnership with Lord Rolle, owned the limestone business and imported timber. There were no houses in front of 'Fairlynch' then, and no doubt he designed the turret on the roof as a look-out for the stone boats as they entered the bay.

'The Octagon' where Millais painted his 'Childhood of Raleigh' was built about 1818. 'Little Hill', on the right up Fore Street Hill, used to be known as 'Simcoe House'. It was once the residence of General Groves Simcoe (1750 -1806), who was the first Governor of Upper Canada, and commanded in Plymouth in 1801 when a French invasion was thought to be on the way.

'Elvestone' has already been mentioned in that area. 'Lawn House' was probably built about 1830, and stood until after the last war at the end of West Terrace, with a garden running down to Station Road.

Mr. D.M. Stirling, Master of the Free Grammar School at Colyton, visited Salterton in 1838. He wrote "On the beach stands Cliff Terrace, a handsome range of lodging houses". He also mentions 'The Feathers' inn.

In 1850, there were 288 houses in the village. "A list of residents includes four sedan chairmen, 10 laundresses, and seven mangle women" (E.R. Delderfield).

In about 1832, a "Respectable ladies' Boarding School was opened at High Cliff House (now Dial House). The principal was Miss Phillips.

The National School, in Queen Street, was originally built around 1825. It was rebuilt by Lord Rolle in the 1840s and was in use until 1913. The new St. Peter's School in Moor Lane then replaced it.  In the last 150 years, there have been 35 different schools listed in Salterton, but only two remain today.

In 1850, Montpellier House was established "For the Daughters of Gentlemen in an ideal resort for Indians, Colonials and Delicate Girls". It remained a school until 1920, when it became an hotel.

The 'Goulett School' at 7, Cliff Terrace (1873-93) was kept by the Misses Clara, Mary and Addie Goulett.  Their school served the needs of parents stationed in India, who required a home for their children as well as a school.  The children were said to be well looked after and happy, although Miss Mary kept a cane called "Mr. Do Good" ... "The little boys wore sailor blouses adorned with buttons, on which were pictured South African generals."  The summerhouse in the garden by the cliff path still remains.

'Abele Tree House' standing in the garden next to the Methodist Temple was rebuilt in 1906. The original house dated from around 1804. Traditionally it was the doctor's house, and remained so until about 1980. At the time of George III's Jubilee, this house belonged to a Dr. Bedcott Adams, who is said to have allowed it to be used by smugglers:- "For the conveyance of their goods, the doctor received payment in kind" (W.L. Wode-Dalton ... "As late as 1825, kegs of spirit were picked up in Salterton bay by Customs Officers" (R.J. Woodall).

Opposite 'Abele Tree House' was a bakery owned during the latter half of the last century by Mr. Pidsley. At 3 p.m. every afternoon he sounded a horn to announce that the oven was ready, and the housewives all brought their bread to be baked.

Dr. Semple, who lived in 'Abele Tree House' in the first part of this century wrote reminiscences of his boyhood visits to Salterton for the Parish Magazine. He tells us that the pavements were laid with pebbles which were so uncomfortable to walk on, that everyone walked in the road. By this time, four-horse coaches ran four times daily to Exmouth from the Rolle Hotel, picking up more passengers at 'The Feathers'. Station Road was still a pleasant lane leading to Moor Lane, and up to Shorewood. There were no houses beyond the back gate of 'The Lawn'. "Where the church now stands was a large sloping field, down the centre of which ran a hedge, on which there were large elms. No road existed from the Post Office to West Terrace, only a footpath, guarded by posts ...

Dr. Semple's memoirs continue:- "The Parade as we know it, did not exist. There was a very rough road leading to the top of the cliff ... Cows were driven through the village twice a day to be milked at the dairy farms. One farm stood close to where the King William now stands, another in Chapel Street, behind the Salterton Arms. Sheep were driven to the Slaughter House behind Webbers, the Butcher" (now the Creamery) ... "The ladies bathed from a few wheeled bathing machines below the Coast-guard Station, and the men bathed under the West Cliff ... There was a ferry boat at the mouth of the Otter, worked by an old Jersey man called Vincent. He posed for Millais as the Old Salt in the 'Boyhood of Raleigh'."

The Public Room Company was founded in 1862, to be responsible for the building and administration of the Assembly Rooms on West Hill. These could accommodate 350 persons. Over 100 years ago, according to the Directories at Fairlynch, there were "besides the admirably conducted penny readings held during the winter seasons, and many other entertainments" several balls held every year which were "always well attended by the elite of the whole neighbourhood". There was also a Literary Institute, a Mechanics' Institute and a Philharmonic Society which provided "good concerts".

In 1868, the town was first lit by gas. Maria. Gibbons writes:- "There was a grand procession, flags, horsemen, etc. and then a lady, resident here, lit the first lamp". Overhead a banner was hung, which read "We no longer walk in darkness".

In 1870, Lord Rolle provided a pavilion for the Archery Club. Two years later croquet was introduced, and the new game of tennis was soon added to the Club's amenities. The first Budleigh Salterton Lawn Tennis Tournament was held in 1884. Archery faded out as an attraction about the turn of the century, and the Budleigh Salterton Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club established a first-class reputation throughout the country, with leading tournaments in both games.

One of the local Directories (1870) comments:- "The whole place wears an appearance of brightness, cleanliness and prosperity; and an improvement Committee composed of several of the most active of the gentry and tradesmen contribute much by their efforts to this appearance". By 1879 the Improvement Committee is said to "govern" the town; "most of the improvements were paid for by voluntary subscription". The Committee later transformed itself into a Local Board of nine members, which managed the affairs of the town until the Urban District Council was formed in 1894. The first meeting of the new Council was held in the Public or Assembly Rooms on West Hill. The nine members were Doctors Evans. and Walker; Messrs. Theobold, Burch, Kempson, Stamp, Waring and Williams; and the historian Dr, Brushfield. It was not until 1949 that the number of Councillors was increased. The Public Rooms eventually became Palmer's furniture store, several years before the present Public Hall was built in 1925; they were razed to the ground by enemy action in 1942.

The rapid increase in population resulted in the Chapel-of-Ease becoming too small to accommodate all the new residents. The Hon. Mark Rolle proceeded to build the present church of St. Peter's at his own expense in 1891. It was designed by the well-known architect G.R. Fellowes Prynne, and built from Beer stone by the Exeter builders Luscombe & Sons. The design included a tower with a spire, to be erected above the Baptistry to a height of 140 feet, Unfortunately this feature never materialised. The church was constructed to hold 800, at a total cost of £10, 000. it was consecrated in 1893 by the Bishop of Exeter. Although the secular parish of Budleigh Salterton had separated from that of East Budleigh in 1894, the Ecclesiastical Parish of Budleigh Salterton was not formed until 1900.

 

Salterton owes much to the beneficence of the Rolles during the 19th and 20th centuries. The Golf Course which has been of much value to the town was also laid out by the Hon. Mark Rolle. In 1887 the Cottage Hospital was built to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. As its accommodation was for 10 to 12 patients only, it had to be enlarged in 1891. The following year saw the building of the Masonic Hall. About 1889, 'Walter's Folly' rose up to dominate Fore Street. It was built for Mr. Walters the butcher, and was decorated by Italian craftsmen. It now houses 'The Creamery'.

The Railway came to Salterton in 1897, firstly via a branch line from Tipton St, John, off the main Waterloo-Exeter line. Although the first sod for the line through to Exmouth was cut by Lady Gertrude Rolle in 1895, it was not completed until 1903. The undertaking had proved expensive and complicated, owing to the erection of a viaduct across Dalditch Lane. The cost of the branch line from Tipton to Salterton alone was £80,000, and the whole expense of the enterprise was borne by the Rolle Estate.

Naturally the advent of the railway led to a rapid expansion of the town, which by 1904 had achieved a population of nearly 2,000. By 1911, the number rose to 2,170. The first extensive housing estate followed; it was built off Greenway Lane behind the Station goods yard, which is now used by Norman's 'Cash and Carry'. Clinton Terrace, Copplestone Road, Leas Road, and the houses along Station Road, all date from this time.

In 1890, a delightful innovation to the summer season was introduced with the arrival on the scene of two paddle steamers, 'The Duke' and 'The Duchess of Devonshire'. It sometimes happened that the steamers got stuck on the beach, and the children used to be rounded up to help rock them back into the water in return for a free trip round the bay.

Mr. George Mears, a well-known fisherman here, has some amusing reminiscences of those days. His father, also a fisherman, found him the job of laying down the boarding planks when the steamers came in. From his classroom in the Queen Street School, George could hear the warning hoot sound from the steamer as she entered the bay. He was then permitted to slip down to the beach and fulfil his duties. The master would check his watch to make sure he was not away for too long.

George had another little job, that of carrying up buckets of sea-water at sixpence a time for the elderly visitors at the Rolle Hotel, so they could enjoy sea-water baths. His father would remind him to put pebbles at the bottom of the pail "to look natural".

Times were hard, and life was simple in those days that now seem so far away, but the changes came slowly. The Station Bus, provided by the Rolle Hotel, was horse-drawn for many years.

There remains little space in this chapter to describe some of the interesting people who enlivened Victorian Salterton.

The visit of Millais to 'The Octagon', where he painted 'The Boyhood of Raleigh' has already been mentioned.

The writer and historian, Dr. Brushfield, lived at 'The Cliff' (below the Rosemullion Hotel). He was at one time President of the Devonshire Association, and was the author of an esteemed biography of Raleigh, among other works.

Opposite Dr. Brushfield at the top of Cliff Terrace lived Thomas Trollope. His house has been demolished. He wrote a famous History of Florence, and was a more serious writer than his brother Anthony, the popular novelist, who came to stay with him from time to time.

A most delightful character who epitomised the Victorian scene in this town was the writer Maria Gibbons who, with her mother, moved from East Budleigh to live at the top of Victoria Place. Her charming reminiscences of Salterton have already been quoted in this chapter. She drove a donkey tandem, and was quite eccentric in her attitude towards animals. She once had a wooden leg fitted on her broken-legged cow. Maria was the author of 'We Donkeys in Devon', and several novels, now forgotten. When past middle age she took up nursing. There have always been 'characters' in Salterton.

In 1890 Dr. Brushfield described Budleigh Salterton as follows:- "The little village on its (East Budleigh's) sea-bound boundary, having become, during the present century, a favourite resort of many, who, during the summer months seek a quiet health inspiring change from the atmosphere of large towns, with the additional advantage in the eyes of some, that the precincts have not as yet been invaded by the locomotive."

Nearly 100 years later, and after the locomotive has retreated from our precincts, our opinion of its assets has changed in the eyes of more than 'some'. But in the eyes of many, the assets of Budleigh Salterton itself remain very much the same.

Author: Elizabeth Campbell. Extracted from Sketches on local History – The Lower Otter Valley © 1984 Otter Valley Association. See publications page of web site for full list of publications available for purchase.

References

 

Dennys, Joyce & Daniel, Betty (1961) Budleigh Salterton Past and Present. (Album compiled for the W. I.; in Budleigh Salterton Public Library and Fairlynch Museum)

Gibbons, Maria (1887) Budleigh Salterton in 1809. (Transcript in Fairlynch Museum)

Pigot, J. (1830) Directory of Cornwall and Devon. (Pigot & Co.)

Polwhele, R. (1797) History of Devonshire. Reprinted in 1977 from 1797 ed. by Cadell (Kohler & Coombes)

Risdon, Tristram (ca. 1714) Survey of the County of Devon. Reprinted 1811 (Rees & Curtis)

Sheppard, Lilian (1972-77) Historical Jottings; in East Budleigh Parish News.

White, W. (1850) History, Gazetteer and Directory of Devonshire. (Simkin, Marshall & Co.)

White, W. (1878-9) History, Gazetteer and Directory of Devonshire. (Simkin, Marshall & Co.)

 

Other Documents at Fairlynch Museum: Morris & Co.'s Commercial Directory of Devonshire 1870; M. Billing's Directory and Gazetteer of the County of Devon 1857; Kelly's Directories of Devonshire 1890 to 1914; diverse Guide-Books for Budleigh Salterton.

 

I would like to thank the Misses Joy and Elizabeth Gawne for all their help in my research, and to express my gratitude for the facilities available for it at Fairlynch Museum.

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